Fence washing — priced by the linear foot

Matching pressure to the material

Wood fences are the most common ask around Manchester and Tullahoma — pressure-treated pine, occasionally cedar. I use a wide fan tip 10–12 inches off the boards, moving with the grain, so I lift algae and gray without raising the wood fibers.

Vinyl fencing behaves like vinyl siding: high pressure warps the panels and forces water into the joints, so it gets the same low-pressure soft-wash treatment. Chain link cleans up fast with a focused pressure pass — the wire doesn't need chemistry, just a rinse to knock off the mildew.

What's included on a fence wash

• Full run cleaned on the visible side (both sides on request)
• Rails, pickets, and post caps
• Gate hardware rinsed to reduce corrosion
• Landscaping pre-rinsed and post-rinsed to protect plants
• Optional brightener rinse ($25) on wood fences headed for stain or sealer

One side vs. both sides

For most privacy fences, cleaning the side that faces your yard is what changes the daily view — that's usually the cost-effective choice. If the back side faces a common area, a road, or a neighbor's yard you split with, doing both sides is a small upcharge and worth it.

Shadowbox and picket fences show through in both directions, so I usually recommend both sides for those. I'll walk the fence with you before I start and give you a clear price for each option.

When a fence wash is (and isn't) the right call

A wash restores color and removes algae. It doesn't reverse rot, and it doesn't count as a refinish.

• Right call: algae or green film on the shaded side, pre-stain prep, dinginess before selling the house.
• Right call before staining: wash + brightener rinse so the stain absorbs evenly.
• Not yet: boards that are rotted or falling apart — repair first, wash second.
• Managed expectation: deep gray weathering on cedar may not fully brighten without a chemical strip step I don't offer.
• Not my service: stain application, board replacement, and post resets — I'll refer to a good local carpenter.

Keeping a fence cleaner between washes

Fences take the brunt of shade and sprinkler overspray, which is why the north side always turns green first. A few small habits keep the wash lasting longer:

• Trim shrubs and vines back 6–12 inches so the boards can dry after rain.
• Redirect sprinkler heads that spray directly onto the fence.
• Rake leaves and mulch away from the base — sitting debris wicks moisture into the bottom pickets.
• Seal or stain wood fences every 3–5 years; unsealed cedar and pine gray out much faster.